Kinkykrafts

pappyld04 · January 24, 2008

introRecycled harness (hot things to do with old bike tube)Have you ever gotten sticker shock when you saw the price tag on that

harness that you saw in the store? Yup, I mean the kind of harnesses that us queer and kinky folk us when we want a little strap on action. Maybe it's time to learn how to make

your own. Btw, there's nothing explicit here, it's what you do with your toys that's a little on the rowdy side.

One hammer

One pointy tool (knife or awl)

scissors

snap setter

snap setting anvil

One two inch side release buckle

Four One inch side release buckles

One steel ring whatever size bust fits the toys you usually use. Mine is a two inch.

At least six pairs of snaps. You are likely to mess some up so have extras.

Nine or ten rivets. (you can use snaps here too, but since you don't need to adjust these points, I used rivets.

One skinny used bike tube

One fat bike tube.

step 6Cut and assemble the butt straps.Cut two twenty one inch strips of thin tube. Set one pair of snaps into the end of the two straps as illustrated. Slide buckles on opposite end.

step 7Waist strapsConstruct waist strap. Cut two twenty three inch lengths of thick tube. Set two pairs of snaps into the end of each as illustrated. Attach the receiving two inch buckle to the end of one strip by pressing the rivets together with pliers or using snaps if you want. Loop the corresponding buckle onto the other strap. We'll make the butt strap attachment points in the next step.

pappyld04 · January 24, 2008

introDirty SoapEveryone can use a bar of soap as a present so why not make your own bars extra special with some nudity? Spread the love!

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Get some white cars of soap that have a flat face and measure to see what your work area is. Resize and crop your image to fit.

When you get the transfer paper, just put in in your inkjet printer and print it out.

InstructJS.load(['imagespot'], function () {var spotspot254010 = new ImageSpot( 'spot254010', { loadID: 'FI04CLRFA0CVC3K', loadIMG: 'http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FI0/4CLR/FA0CVC3K/FI04CLRFA0CVC3K.MEDIUM.jpg', editimagedata: 'false', imageDataEditorPlace: 'null', showInfo: true, size: 'MEDIUM' } ); new ImageInfo( spotspot254010, {"imageID":"FI04CLRFA0CVC3K","name":"DSC07093.jpg","imageURL":"http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FI0/4CLR/FA0CVC3K/FI04CLRFA0CVC3K.MEDIUM.jpg","showURL":"/file/FI04CLRFA0CVC3K/","description":null,"length":49624,"width":640,"height":480} ); });comments ()step 2Spray some clear coatApply 2-3 coats of some acrylic clear coat from a spray can and wait 60-90 minutes for it to dry.

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InstructJS.load(['imagespot'], function () {var spotspot254013 = new ImageSpot( 'spot254013', { loadID: 'FIUOTU7FA0CVC41', loadIMG: 'http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FIU/OTU7/FA0CVC41/FIUOTU7FA0CVC41.MEDIUM.jpg', editimagedata: 'false', imageDataEditorPlace: 'null', showInfo: true, size: 'MEDIUM' } ); new ImageInfo( spotspot254013, {"imageID":"FIUOTU7FA0CVC41","name":"DSC07100.jpg","imageURL":"http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FIU/OTU7/FA0CVC41/FIUOTU7FA0CVC41.MEDIUM.jpg","showURL":"/file/FIUOTU7FA0CVC41/","description":null,"length":68646,"width":640,"height":480} ); });comments ()step 5Apply decal to soapIf you're in a rush and have steady hands you can apply the decal onto a dry bar of soap.

If you want to be able to have some leeway and be able to reposition the decal, wet the soap a little bit first.

Apply the decal onto the soap and press out the air bubbles.

InstructJS.load(['imagespot'], function () {var spotspot254014 = new ImageSpot( 'spot254014', { loadID: 'F13CQV9FA0CVC45', loadIMG: 'http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F13/CQV9/FA0CVC45/F13CQV9FA0CVC45.MEDIUM.jpg', editimagedata: 'false', imageDataEditorPlace: 'null', showInfo: true, size: 'MEDIUM' } ); new ImageInfo( spotspot254014, {"imageID":"F13CQV9FA0CVC45","name":"DSC07102.jpg","imageURL":"http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F13/CQV9/FA0CVC45/F13CQV9FA0CVC45.MEDIUM.jpg","showURL":"/file/F13CQV9FA0CVC45/","description":null,"length":83520,"width":640,"height":480} ); });comments ()step 6Give the gift of love and happinessTie it up with a bow, wrap it in some fancy paper, or simply toss it to your roommate and shout "merry freakin' holidays!"

Customize the images to your friends if you want or just mix them up and when your friends call to thank you you can try to figure out which one they got.

Here's to closing out the year with class and style.

pappyld04 · January 24, 2008

Thanks iha. I forgot the disclaimers and cautions area! Safety glasses are also recommended!

pappyld04 · January 24, 2008

introHow to make your own burlesque pastiesWith a recent revisit to carnival acts, the art of burlesque is making a *big* comeback worldwide. The tasteful and creative play of showing a lot yet exposing little was made popular in the 20s-40s by names like Gypsy Rose Lee and Sally Rand (although the sassy striptease has been around for a lot longer!) Neo and Guerilla burlesque shows are popping up everywhere (unexpectedly in the latter case!) and there's no reason you can't be a part of it. While I'm not going to be able to help you with the dance steps I can certainly show you how to quickly and cheaply make your own high quality pasties to cover your *ahem* naughty bits!

step 1Suppliesabout 8" x 8" of craft foam (I find black looks best for the fabrics I usually choose)

scissors

fabric of your choice

tassels/notions of your choice

grommets (you can buy these in the scrapbooking area of any craft store)

grommet smasher (find 'em right by the grommets)

hammer

needle

thread

Take a circular template slightly larger than your nipple diameter and cut it out of the craft foam.

Cut a "Pac Man" shape out of the form. Be sure your first cut goes to the middle of your circle. If you want tassels cut a small portion out of the center for the grommets.

Hold the two sizes together to make a little hat shape. Check to see if it fits you. Trim as needed.

Sew the two sides together.

Make four of these. Two of them will be against your skin so take care that your seams are as smooth as possible (we'll refer to these pieces as the bottoms). The other two we're going to sew your fabric on (we'll call these the tops). The bottoms should be slightly smaller than the tops and don't need grommet holes.

Cut a straight line from the outside to the middle of the fabric just as you did for the foam. Don't forget to also cut out your grommet hole.

Spread the tacky glue on the top.

Line up the center of the fabric with the center of the tops. Put a little glue where the fabric will overlap and press flat. Some fabric will allow the glue to bleed through but most of the time it will be invisible when it dries.

Fold a part of the fabric over to the underside and start sewing. I've found pleating the excess fabric before sewing gives a flatter finish. Do this one pleat at a time. If you really have a lot of excess fabric inside trim it off.

Rest the grommet smasher on the inside of the grommet and gently tap with a hammer until the inside splits like a flower. Hammer gently so you don't warp the front of the grommet.

Insert your tassel through the front hole and sew to the fabric inside of the top.

Secure to nips with eyelash glue or double sided tape and you're ready to shake up the party!

pappyld04 · January 24, 2008

introDIY Stripper Pole! (Stripper not included)So, my girlfriend was hosting a bachelorette party at our house, and the girls decided that they were going to be their own strippers for the evening. The girls: "Man, it sure would be great if we had a stripper pole..." Me: "A stripper pole? No problem!" My budget: $50. Total cost: $47.50. Your cost? Probably around $60. Why? The girl at Home Depot forgot to ring up the flanges. I didn't notice until I got home. If I hadn't already spent 2 hours there getting crappy customer service, I probably would have gone back and paid for them. I normally shop at Lowe's but their pipe cutter was broken. I do give a shout-out to Lowe's however, for the guy in appliances who helped me think out the plan.

It is essential that you get an exact measurement, as your ceiling may not be exactly 8' at every point.

Purchase the following:

--A wooden board. I used 3/4" plywood.

--1 galvanized steel pipe. I used 1 1/4" pipe. The length should be: Ceiling height minus 2 X board thickness minus 1". (This inch will account for the fact that the pipe may not screw into the flange so that it is flush--something I learned as I was going). My ceiling was 8'1", so my pipe was cut to 7'11 1/2". I should've had it cut to 7'10 1/2". You can have the pipe cut and threaded to length at most major hardware stores.

--2 pipe flanges. Make sure that they are the same size as the pipe.

--4 X hex bolts and nuts. Make sure that they will fit through the holes in the flanges. Make sure that they are just long enough to fit through the board and flanges. I used 1/4" x 1 1/2" hex bolts, but later had to switch to 1" bolts, as you will see later.

--4 X long lag bolts. I used 1/4" x 3" bolts. Make sure they will fit through the flanges.

--12 X flat washers (same size as bolts)

--spray automotive primer

--brass spray paint

--clear enamel spray

--something to prevent skidding (if you have wood floors and don't want to attach the pole to the floor). I originally bought the no-skid strips for bath tubs. In spite of the brand name, these are not magic! They are actually very slippery on my wood floors. I got super ghetto and used jar openers, but you could probably use that stuff you put under rugs to prevent skidding...

--hopefully you already have ceiling paint, but if not, it might be a good thing to grab.

Attach your no-skid solution to the bottom of the floor board.

It was at this point that I realized the bath tub strips sucked. I went to the grocery store (it's now 9ish pm) to see if they had any jar openers. They didn't have the flat ones I wanted, so I got the rounded ones you see.

I split the jar openers, and superglued them on.

I made a delicious grilled ham, egg and cheese sandwich.

There's something incredibly manly (at least in my world) about making a breakfast-like sandwich at 9 PM, served with beer, while building a stripper pole in your house.

Ingredients:

Multi-grain bread (Buttered)

Boarshead rosemary sundried tomato ham

Boarshead munster cheese

2 fried eggs.

suggested beverage: Killians or Yuengling

step 7Rethink some thingsOk, so at this point, I attached the pole to the floor board and flange, and tried to stand it up.

This is when I realized my pole was too long. Thinking that the pole wouldn't screw into the flange further because the board was in the way, I used my jigsaw to cut a hole in the board. Don't do this. It doesn't work.

Instead, I had to use a chisel to split my plywood down the middle, then I planed and sanded the board. At this point, now that my board was thinner, my bolts were too long, and I had to go out the next morning and buy shorter bolts.

step 8Attach to the ceilingOnce you have the pole attached to the floor board and flange, screw on the ceiling flange, and, stand it up very carefully. I didn't have room for the ceiling board, but if you measured correctly, the board should slip between the ceiling flange and the ceiling.

Use a level to make sure that it is plumb.

You should have drilled holes in the ceiling board for the screws to attach the flange.

Stand on the floor board, and twist the hell out of the pole until the pole is super tight against the ceiling.

If you have stucco walls and ceiling like me, you will want to use a masonry bit to drill pilot holes to get to the studs.

Once you have everything up, use a washer, and screw in the lag screws, securing the pole to the ceiling.

step 9Step back and take it all inReflect on what you have done. Use some furniture polish to give it bit of slickness. Take it for a test-run. Don't be shy.

Now find a strippper.

pappyld04 · January 24, 2008

introMobile Stripper Pole (no need to attach to ceiling)When you're done this will be a heavy but moveable dancing pole. You'll be building a base out of wood and the pole will come out of the middle of the base. If you buy the parts it should cost less than $100. This pole has been built based on these instructions by at least 10 people - you can see some pictures of the results below. It has been reported as being sturdy, but not completely solid the way it would be if you were to attach it to the ceiling., but it is mobile and it works pretty good. The first, second, and third images are specifically related to the pole I made, and the rest are variants based on the instructions given here. <script language=javascript type=text/JavaScript> InstructJS.load(['instruct','imagespot'], function () {var spotspot5060 = new ImageSpot( 'spot5060', { loadID: 'F21A4BROOIES9J6AQ5', loadIMG: 'http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F21/A4BR/OOIES9J6AQ5/F21A4BROOIES9J6AQ5.MEDIUM.jpg', editimagedata: 'false', imageDataEditorPlace: 'null', showInfo: true, size: 'MEDIUM' } ); new ImageInfo( spotspot5060, step 1List of ingredientsStripper Pole Parts

# Go to your favorite hardware store

# Buy one steel plumbing pipe (for the pole) with threads on the bottom. It should be the height of your ceiling minus 5 inches and around 1 3/4 inches in diameter. They'll cut it for you at places like H. Depot. This will not be a shiny mirror color like some professional stripper poles.

# Get a flange to screw the pole into. A flange is a strong base piece that you can screw the pole into and then bolt down to the bottom piece of wood.

# Get the four nuts, bolts, and washers to attach the flange to the bottom of the stripper pole base.

# Plywood usually comes in 4'x8', so get one of those and get them to cut it in half (again, they'll do that at H. Depot for you).

# Get 12' worth of 2"x6" board. Cut it into two 4' pieces, one 1' piece, and two 1 1/2' pieces.

# You'll want a drill with a bit the same size as the bolts for the flange.

# Get some 2 1/2" nails or whatever you have lying around. You might also want a hammer or your brother's head.

# If you want the pole to be more sturdy, get a bunch of bricks or flat-cinder-blocks to put in the base.

# Drill 4 holes in the center of one of the plywood panels and the 1' piece of 2"x6" for the flange to get bolted onto.

# Bolt the flange onto the 1' 2"x6" and the plywood panel panel with the bolts coming up through the bottom, so that the nuts get tightened on to the flange, and put washers between the head of the bolt and the plywood to keep the bolts from pulling through the wood (see figure 2). From the bottom up the sandwich should look like this: heads of bolts, washers, bottom of plywood, 2"x6", flange, nuts, tails of bolts.

# Nail the two 4' long 2"x6" onto the bottom piece of plywood (the one with the flange attached). Put them at the edge of the plywood and on opposite sides.

# Nail the two 1 1/2' long 2"x6" in the middle of the plywood as in the figures. They should butt up against the 1' piece of 2"x6", although they are standing tall, and it is lying on its side.

# Now cut a hole in the exact center of the other piece of plywood the same diameter as the pole. You can do this with a special drill bit made to cut holes or you can just keep drilling holes in a cirlce till the middle falls out.

# Finally, nail the top piece of plywood with the hole in it onto the 2"x6" so that it matches up over the bottom plywood.

# Screw the pole into the flange.

# Put the bricks into the openings on the side to weigh down the base. The farther towards the edge the bricks are the better leverage they'll get to weigh down the base.

From FEZ, 9/20/05

I was thnking about it for less the 24hrs when I ran into your web site and then everythng came clear, I had to make a few adjustments to the design for my own extra enjoyment but your basic idea is there, thanks for answering some questions I had.

FEZ

ps.: I'm 160 and I was swinging on the top of a 7ft pole and there was only the flex of the pole for movement, no instabily of the box at all...

From Karusia and Alan, Canada, 8/4/05

Hi, My boyfriend and I were delighted to find your plans for a pole platform on the web. We added a few of our own ideas and built our own. Here are some pix and mini videos that show the results. Thought you'd get a kick out of it. Our pole comes out and the platform can be stored sideways, so it is semi-portable. I love it. Enjoy.

Karusia and Alan

Hey Karusia,

Wow, how tall was the pole you built? It looks like 12 ft. Was it sturdy swinging from the top? I have never seen pictures of yoga and pole dancing on the same page before. It must be an ancient Hindu technique.

Jayngerous

Hi Jay,

The pole is 10 feet long and it is stainless steel with a brushed finish, 1 3/4 inches in diameter (since I have small paws and fall right off the standard 2 inchers). The platform is 8 1/2 inches high and the floor is 4 foot X 4 foot. I confess I have not swung around at the top yet, but my 21 year old son has shimmied to its heights successfully. There is a bit of play in the pole the further you get from the base, but I feel completely stable. I have practised on the free-standing Platinum Stages model and there is definitely vibration in their pole too, so it's normal. I am happy to have you link to my site and pix, I have certainly enjoyed the info you have shared. I will write again with more feedback on the directions and our info. My boyfriend is the master engineer in this domain. Yes, yoga and pole dancing, a natural tantric combo...The concentration and breathing really help when you go upside down on a steel pipe!

Cheers,

Karusia

From Chris Austin, California, 6/29/05

Thanks for your help!!!

I wanted to start by saying Thank You for your web page that you have on "How to make a stripper pole". I made my first pole & stage based on your directions that I found on the net. I modified your design and added a few cosmedic touches to my design. I attached a few photos from the early part of the evening. Later on clothing came off and the pole was used to it's full potential. Those photos are under lock and key. If anyone ever needs help they can contact me at my shop through my web site www.skydancersintl.com.

Chris

Chris,

Nice modifications. How did you do it? Did you paint the wood or add a layer of something?

Jayngerous

We used the same material that is used to build road cases for musicians. 1/8" laminated abs plywood for the sides. The top is stained and sealed plywood also used for road cases, I build fligh/road cases in my shop and between your design and mine. Out came a superstar stage!

Chris

From Daniel, AZ, 3/7/05

I was about to build the stripper pole that you had posted instructions to build. I was curious if you attatched the top of the pole to the ceiling at all, or if the base with weight in it was enough to stop it from falling over? Any advice on this you could give me on this would be great. Thanx!

Daniel

Hey! The top of the pole isn't attached to the ceiling anywhere, though if

you have a sturdy ceiling there's no reason you couldn't do that. Since we

didn't build the pole at our own house, there was no way we were bolting

into the ceiling without a fight.

Our pole has "flat" cinder blocks in the hollow base (you can use anything

that's heavy). It didn't tip over even when guys swung on it ~ 180 pounds.

Although our pole was only 8 ft. tall.

Jayngerous

From Amber, Brevard County FL, 2/12/05

Hey Jay-

I came to your Cosmo party with my friends Meg and Megan (That's me in the gray shirt sitting on Drunken Claus' lap). I had a great time dancing with all of the girls on your homemade pole, and I was glad to find that you had instructions for building one on your site. I hosted a lingerie party last night and I wanted to send you some pictures of the crazy fiasco. Thanks for the directions!!!

Amber

Hey Amber,

Yeah I totally remember you. It was so much fun! Thanks for coming. I like Megan and Meg. I don't ever get to see them anymore since I moved to Boston. Those freekin pictures are awesome! You built your own pole. That is so wacky that you're the second person now who built a pole off those instructions. So wonderful. I'm posting your pictures below.

Keep it happenin in Brevard,

Jayngerous

From Amber, 2/13/05

Hey Jay-

I thought your party was great too. I met a lot of cool, interesting people, just when I had given up on the possibility of meeting any in the entire state. Meg and Megan both had nothing but nice things to say about you before the party, and they were right. You were way cool, and I am glad I got a chance to meet you (and your bro, girlfriend, ect.).

So, yeah, I built the pole with minor assistance from the guys at Home Depot. It's amazing how quickly they help you when they know what you are building. I had 4-5 middle aged balding men waiting me the entire time I was there. It was quite humorous. None of the instructions were confusing, and the schematic portion really helps. The only difficult part about the pole was getting it into the hotel room without anyone seeing it. We had a blast, and you can definitely post those pictures on your website.

Stay warm-

Amber

From Brandi, New Orleans, 1/14/05

Hey,

I just wanted to thank you for the advice you posted on your website about how to construct a stripper pole. I've been thinking about buying one of those removable ones, but they run about $300. I was impressed with the party run down, too. I didn't think you guys up North could party. If you and your friends ever happen to come down to New Orleans and need a tour guide to show you how to really party, just email me. Although, going to sleep at 3:30 is unacceptable considering the bars don't close until sunrise. Thanks again for the information. I'll try and build it this weekend. If it works, I might even send some pictures of some new tricks I learn. Have a good weekend!

Brandi

Thanks Brandi,

Glad y'all are holding down the crazyfort in New Orleans. I'll post pictures of your pole here if you send me some.

pappyld04 · January 24, 2008

Actually all of these came from other people on another site. I just thought that they were worthy of sharing with our fellow TTers!!! There are a few others there but IDK if people would really care to buy the stuff to do this! The site these came from is one that uses almost anything that can be found around the house, in a dumpster, or who knows where they find some o fthis stuff but these people are really intelligent!! And they share!!!!!

Mike_d · February 3, 2008

some of those seem really interesting and I might have to give them a shot!

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